Grès, Alix (Madame)

(1903-1994)

   Born Germaine Emilie Krebs in Paris, she later changed her name to Alix Grès. In 1933, she first apprenticed at the couture house of Premet before moving to assist another couturière named Julie Barton. She opened her own house from 1941 to 1944 but closed for a short time due to the German occupation of Paris. When she reopened in late 1944, her business prospered and continued to do so through the 1950s and 1960s, which included the launch of a fragrance, Cabochard, released in 1959. Grès is best known for donning a beige turban and for designing the most exquisitely draped goddesslike silk jersey gowns, sometimes using up to 30-70 yards each. It was not until the house was on the brink of bankruptcy that the company offered a ready-to-wear line, designed by Marc Audibet; in 1984, the company was sold to businessman Bernard Tapie. Two years later, it was resold to the French group Estorel and went bankrupt in 1987. The brand was eventually acquired by a Japanese investment group Yagi in 1988. In 2003, the shop on Rue St. Honoré was revamped and Japanese designer Koji Tatsuno (1965- ) was hired to reinvent the Grés style. Today, Madame Grés is regarded as one of the most influential designers of the twentieth century.

   See also Haute Couture.